How To Replace Wooden Floorboards: Step By Step Process Of Replacing Wooden Floorboards


Step By Step Process Of Replacing Wooden Floorboards

For a hardwood floor that is looking tidy, accurate & elegant, having only one or two damaged spots, it is easy as well as inexpensive to repair these spots simply by replacing a strip or plank of flooring. It is also possible to repair buckled areas of flooring instead of entirely refinishing your floors. The majority of floors use a tongue-and-groove design in order to join or link up adjacent strips. First of all, check out any nails in the damaged board before driving them through the board as far as you possibly can, with the help of a hammer and nail set. It is recommended to use nail sets in order to drive nails flush with trim without damaging the trim using a hammer. After clearing the nails, it’s time to get rid of the damaged board and install a new one, by going through the bel0w-mentioned easy steps carefully:
  1. Draw A Perpendicular Line: Firstly, with the help of a carpenter’s square, draw a perpendicular line through the section of the board that you are planning to remove. If in case you are getting rid of the entire strip, then skip this step.
  2. Drill Holes: The next step is to make holes along the drawn perpendicular line using a 1/2- or 3/8-inch-diameter spade bit as well as a power drill.
  3. Trim The Damaged Board: Now, with the help of a wood chisel, trim the damaged board into two pieces, which in turn, will help you make the removal process easier.
  4. Pry The Damaged Board: Next, raise, move, or pull apart the damaged board. In case of getting rid of the strip from the center, then you can move the rest of the pieces away from the adjoining boards before pulling them apart. Get rid of any extra boards exactly the same way however, trim them so the end joints are staggered.
  5. Remove Nails: Square up the drilled ends with the help of a very sharp wood chisel, and use a nail puller in order to get rid of any exposed nails or drive them out of the way using a nail set. The ends of the good sections should be smooth as well as a square for easier installation.
  6. Trim A Replacement Strip: Now, trim a replacement strip to the same length that you have removed. Trim off the underside of the groove on the board. Getting rid of the underside groove allows you to install a board betwixt two others by inserting its tongue side first before lowering its groove side into place. If you don’t get rid of it, you will not be able to get the board past the tongue of the adjoining board.
  7. Test-fit The Strip: Test-fit the strip in order to make sure that it fits. If it doesn’t, then you need to recut the board. Eliminate the replacement strip before applying the construction adhesive to the backside of the strip. Install the strip and smoothly tap it into place. With the help of a scrap piece of wood, protect the strip’s surface while tapping it into place. Nail the board with the help of 2-inch-long ring-shank flooring nails and drive the heads just underneath the surface using a nail set.

The finish of the new strip should match with the existing flooring, which may not be an easy task, but try to give it the same finish before you refinish the entire floor. Spread the stain as well as a sealer or whatever finish the strip needs in order to match the existing floor. Sometimes, a hardwood board buckles, which you need to repair as soon as possible due to two reasons:
  • To prevent further damage to the floor.
  • More importantly, to remove a real tripping hazard.

In order to repair a buckled floorboard, it is important to access the floor from underneath. One of the best ways to handle this issue is to put some weight on the buckled area from above, like a cement block. Then, place or fix a 1 1/4-inch screw in position in the buckled flooring from underneath. Allow the screw to go into or through only halfway into the flooring, otherwise, it may come up through the finished surface. Moving the screw through the subfloor and into the flooring pulls the flooring down in opposition of the subfloor and gets rid of the buckled spot.
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