Step By Step Process Of Moving A Shower Drain In A Concrete Floor
A shower drain is a plumbing component that is mounted on the shower stall floor. The drainpipe joins to the shower and enables water to exit and enter the septic tank or sewer. A grating or screen is generally placed over the drain to stop hair, soap, and other material from obstructing it. The drain has a hole in the middle that lets water flow through. A P-trap connects the drain to the drainpipe. The P-trap, a U-shaped pipe that holds water and forms a seal to keep sewage gases out of the house, is used. There are a few situations where moving a shower drain may be necessary. Maybe you're redesigning your shower's arrangement, or maybe you're only relocating the drain. It's not a job that should be taken lightly, regardless of the motivation.
Things You Will Need
- Safety Glasses, Dust Mask & Angle Grinder
- 4-Inch Cutting Blade & Narrow Shovel
- Electric Chipping Hammer
- Reciprocating Saw & PVC Glue
- Bubble Level & Trowel
Step 1: Cut The Concrete Base
- Mark Cuts With Red Crayon
Using a red crayon, mark a 6- to 8-inch wide path from the old drain location to the new drain location on the concrete floor. Pick the quickest path. The concrete is being cut while the red crayon is still visible. - Take Safety Precautions
Turn on the exhaust fan and open the bathroom window. To prevent draughts and keep the dust as contained as possible, shut all doors. Put on a dust mask and safety eyewear.
Step 2: Remove The Concrete Slab
- Cut With An Angle Grinder
Use an angle grinder with a 4-inch concrete-cutting blade to shave through the concrete's surface. Trace the lines using a crayon. A blade for cutting concrete has grooves that go all the way through the diamond-studded blade. - Break Concrete Into Smaller Pieces
With an electric chipping hammer, remove the concrete slab from between the cut lines. When the chipping hammer's blade hits the dirt underneath the slab, start in one corner and work your way through the slab. Clear the way of all the cracked concrete. Throw away the trash.
Step 3: Prepare For New Drain Line
- Dig Trench For New Pipe
With a narrow shovel, make a trench in the dirt beneath the concrete that was removed. Work your way from the old drain position to the new one. The trench's depth must match the depth of the original drain line's bottom. Keep this mud. - Purchase Correct Size Drain Line
The original drain line's size and material type should be listed on the label printed on the side, which is often marked with "SCH 40" and "1 1/2." The new drain line extension must be made of the same material and dimensions as the original line. The distance between the old and new drain lines should be measured. Buy fresh drain line that is the right size, material, and length. - Cut Old Drain Line
Use a reciprocating saw to cut the horizontal pipe of the old drain. Make the cut at least 3 inches away from the fitting that turns the drain upward at a 90-degree angle. - Reattach Old Drain Line Piece
Place the cut-off portion of the old drain line at the new drain site. Point the 3-inch cut-off part in the direction of the previous drain line.
Step 4: Cut New Drain Line
- Take Accurate Measurements
Using a tape measure, determine the distance from the end of the cut-off piece to the horizontal pipe. Place a 45-degree fitting in the trench where necessary and measure from the fitting to each cut end if the new drain site calls for the extension pipe to be turned. Never extend a drain line with a 90-degree fitting. Transfer the measurements to the new drain pipe, then use a pencil to make a mark on it. - Cut The New Drain Line
At the pencil marks, use a reciprocating saw to cut the drain pipe.
Step 5: Assemble Pipes And Couplings
- Glue Pipes And Couplings
Utilizing PVC adhesive, attach a coupling to the old horizontal pipe and the 3-inch side of the pipe that was severed from the horizontal pipe. Add PVC adhesive to the couplings and the extension pipe. Glue any 45-degree fittings necessary for the extension pipe. Give the adhesive time to dry. - Slope Pipe According To Code
On the extension pipe, place a bubble level. Lift the end of the extension pipe and pack earth beneath if it does not slope down to the old drain pipe. Once the slope reaches 1/4 inch per foot and all hips and valleys are gone, keep packing earth under the extension pipe. - Test Drain Pipe For Leaks
Pour some water down the drain line and check the couplings for leaks. Only continue if there are no signs of a leak.
Step 6: Add A New Concrete Base
- Fill In Remaining Dirt
Over the drain pipe, compact the leftover dirt. - Mix Concrete And Water
Utilizing a trowel, combine water and concrete in a bucket. The correct proportions of concrete mix and water should be determined using the manufacturer's instructions. Stir the mixture until it resembles toothpaste in consistency. - Pour And Smooth Concrete
With wet concrete, fill in the floor area that was carved out. Smooth the concrete using the trowel.