The Proper Procedure To Limewash Floorboards
Limewash is one of the time-tested treatments for wood as well as masonry that gives a finishing touch to many structural styles. However, the true lime wash is not permanent and it is not suitable for the majority of the floors. Each clean-up gets rid of some of the caustic, chalky lime, as well as the waxes or oils that can be used when it comes to sealing lime-washed furniture. One of the best solutions is a limewash or pickling stain as well as a sealer. Pickling stain doesn’t have or hold lime within, however, it puts together the semi-transparent, whitewashed, or pickled appearance that is sought-after in most modern homes. Start with a bare wood floor, as sealers in order to stop the color from absorbing into the wood.
- Mix Pickling Or Lime Wash Stain Thoroughly
First of all, combine or put together pickling or lime wash stain thoroughly with the help of a paint stir stick, or you can ask the paint retailer to mix the stain for you using a paint mixing machine. - Wipe The Stain Onto The Wood Using A Brush Or Rag
Soak or rinse a brush or rag into the stain and wipe it onto the wood, but make sure to work in the direction of the floorboards as well as the wood grain. When it comes to an area as large as a floor, it is the best option to wipe on the stain in an area you can reach easily & then slowly lift the brush or rag as you proceed to the end of a stroke. This feathers out the stain and stops a noticeable distinction line betwixt strokes. It is also better to only put or spread stains within existing stopping points like staining one board or one row of boards at a time. - Wipe Off The Stain With A Clean Rag
Remove the stain by washing with the help of a clean rag while the stain is still wet, again make sure to work in the direction of the boards as well as the wood grain. Move through the floorboards spreading and wiping off stains in small sections at a time as long as you have stained the whole floor. - Allow The Floor To Dry Completely
Now, allow the floor to dry for a few hours if you are using water-based stain & when it comes to oil-based stain, allow it to dry overnight. Don’t move forward with sealing the floor as long as the sealer is fully dry to the touch. Mix a can of urethane sealer with the help of a paint stir stick. Make sure not to stir the urethane fast, due to the reason that this will introduce bubbles to the liquid that will shift to the floor. Use the urethane straight from the can if you are looking to apply it with the help of a brush, or pour the sealer into a clean paint pan if you are looking to use a floor sealer mop. - Apply Urethane To The Floor
Next, put or spread urethane to the floor with the help of a fine-bristled wood finishing brush or a lambswool floor finish applicator pad that is secured to the end of a long-handle floor sealer mop. Brushes are appropriate for small floors, however, a lambswool pad using a floor sealer mop is a better choice for large floors. Whether you are looking to brush or mop on the sealer, use long, slow strokes in order to prevent air bubbles and move progressively in the direction of the floorboards as well as the grain of the wood. - Allow The Floor To Dry
Allow the floor to dry for a few hours if you are using water-based urethane, or overnight if you are using oil-based urethane. Put or spread as many more coats of sealer to the pickled floor as recommended by the sealer manufacturer, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. - Regular Sweeping And Mopping
If you want to take care of the newly-finished floor, it is better to do regular sweeping as well as mopping, and use furniture leg sliders or protective pads in order to prevent scratching or scarring the finish. Waxes and polishes are needless & irrelevant on a floor sealed using urethane, and some products can mar the finish.