Installing Slate Tile On Exterior Walls
A natural, affordable building material that can give your walls a unique and lovely aspect is slate tile. Homeowners who are conscientious and don't mind planning ahead, putting in the work, and getting a bit dirty can install slate tile on a vertical wall. Due to its ease of installation, durability, and beauty, slate tiling has long been a favorite among builders and homeowners. There are numerous patterns and colors available. The tiles can be found in a variety of shapes and sizes, including the rectangular 12 by 12-inch size, which is larger than many other tiles and requires less work to install. Make sure to purchase tile that is appropriate for the project and resistant to water.
Items Needed
- Notch Trowel
- Margin Trowel
- 2-Gallon Plastic Bucket
- Sponge & Thin Set Mortar
- Grout & Grout Float
- Sealer/Enhancer & Paint Brush Or Rags
- Wet Tile Saw & Tile Spacers And Wedges
- Plumb Line, Level & Tape Measure
Step 1: Create Your Layout
- Determine The Size & Pattern Of The Layout
Establish the layout's size and shape. Slate tiles come in squares that are 2 inches, 4 inches, 6 inches, 12 inches, 16 inches, and 24 inches wide. Generally speaking, you shouldn't use tiles larger than 12 × 12 inches on a vertical surface. Tiles can be arranged either straight or diagonally. Moreover, you might employ a range of different sizes in your design. For instance, the main portion of the wall could be constructed with 12 by 12 inch tiles arranged in a straight line, with a band of 6 x 6 inch tiles arranged diagonally. - Draw Your Complete Layout
Draw your entire layout if you can. For this assignment, graph paper can be quite beneficial. It helps to see the blueprint written out on paper so you can estimate how much material you'll need and where to make your cuts. Also, it aids in project visualization and lets you decide whether the layout you are envisioning in your head will actually look nice on the wall. - Find Your Center Line
Locate your center line before you begin tiling. From there, you should put down your tiles as necessary. Choose the pattern you choose. The center line can either cut your center tile in half or it can indicate the grout junction between two tiles. Use your plumb line to snap a chalk guideline to follow once you've located the center. - Cut Some Of The Tiles To Fit The Wall Space
Some of the tiles will very certainly need to be cut to fit the available wall space. The corners of the wall should be against these cut parts. It is possible to pre-cut the tile before laying it with meticulous measurement. If a wet tile saw is not available on your job site, this can be useful. However keep in mind that you might need to run down to the neighborhood tile store to use their saw if your dimensions are not precise. Add 1/8 inch to each grout joint when taking your measurements. Although it might not seem like much, those joints add up.
Step 2: Laying The Slate
- Mix Your Mortar In A Plastic Bucket
Mix your mortar in a bucket made of plastic. Fill the bucket with water first, then gradually add the mortar until you achieve the desired consistency. You can mix mortar with a sturdy stick, but a drill attachment for mixing cement and mortar will save you a lot of labor. Remember that mortar can damage your drill because it is thick. If you're going to mix mortar with it, be sure to have a powerful drill. Mix the mortar a little thicker than usual when installing tile on a wall, especially if you are hanging larger tiles. Just enough water should be added to completely mix the mortar, but not enough to make it runny. Turn the blade of your margin trowel sideways while holding a dab of mortar on it. The mortar ought to be tightly adhered to the trowel and should only gently sag. - Use The Appropriate Notch Trowel
Use the appropriate notch trowel for the size of the tile you are laying since they come in different sizes. Because a deeper notch trowel applies more mortar, it is recommended to use it when working with larger tiles. Spread mortar on the section of the wall where you will place your first few tiles using your notch trowel. A notch trowel often features a smooth side and end in addition to a notched side and an end. Use the smooth side of the mortar's first pass to apply a thick layer of mortar. The notched trowel is calibrated so that the ideal quantity of mortar is let to remain on the surface when you are holding it at a 45-degree angle. Use the notched side or end of the trowel to make a mortar bed that has grooves by holding it at a 45-degree angle to the wall surface. You will place the tile on top of this. - "Back Butter" The Tile
It is advisable to "back butter" a vertical tile application when dealing with the tile. This entails applying a layer of mortar on the tile's backside before pressing it into the mortar bed using your margin trowel. This accomplishes a few things. It improves the bond first, and it also gives you a bit more time to match up tiles of different thicknesses. Each piece of a natural object like slate can have a different thickness, sometimes substantially. - Properly Adjust The Tile Positions
As you progress, use spacers and wedges to correctly modify the tile placements. Spacers are offered in a range of thicknesses, with 1/8-inch being the most popular. To create the initial grout joint between the floor and the edge of the first tile, place your base tile on a few spacers. Finally, as you work your way over and up, use spacers to maintain uniformly sized grout joints. Wedges, which are little triangular bits of nylon, are used to slightly modify the distance between tiles. Once more, it's common to discover pieces that are not precisely square as well as other minor flaws in a natural product like slate. In these situations, wedges are your greatest option for achieving a unified, even appearance. - Keep An Eye Out And Take Frequent Breaks
As you work, keep an eye out and take frequent breaks to check that your grout joints are maintaining consistent and seeming to be generally straight. While you work, you have a decent amount of time to adjust. Mortar for tiles cures relatively slowly. Even after the tile has been set for a half-hour, adjustments can still be made.
Step 3: Grout Preparation And Grouting
- Clean Up Any Mortar
Once the tile is in place, wipe away any mortar that may have formed on the slate's surface by going over the wall with a moist sponge and utility knife. Moreover, search for any spots where mortar may have pushed through tile joints because these may detract from the grout's appearance. To get rid of as much of the extra mortar as you can, use the utility knife. Prior to grouting, give the set tile 24 hours to dry. - In A Plastic Bucket, Mix Your Grout
Mix your grout in a bucket made of plastic. Water must be added before grout. The texture of mixed grout should resemble cake batter. Increase the grout if it's too runny. When mixing grout, keep in mind that a little water goes a long way. - Spread The Grout Over The Surface Of The Slate
Spread the grout over the slate's surface using your grout float and margin trowel. Push the grout all the way into the joints with the grout float. After applying grout to a specific area, use the grout float to scrape off any extra grout by holding it almost perpendicular to the surface like a squeegee. You'll save a tonne of time doing this during the rinse process. If you are working on a particularly large area, you might want to grout a small area first and then thoroughly clean it before moving on. Particularly when allowed to dry on the surface, grout can truly adhere to slate and become nearly impossible to remove. - Remove Any Excess Grout From The Surface Of The Slate
You are prepared to rinse if you have a pail of clean water and a sponge. The sponge will be used in this procedure to remove any extra grout from the slate's surface. The procedure of rinsing will also level the grout that has been used in the joints. Rinse again until the slate surface is free of any grout and grout haze. Rinse the slate two times, and then give it 15 minutes to dry. Any haze or extra grout material should now be visible, and you can rinse one or two more times to completely remove it.
Step 4: Sealing The Slate
- Seal Your Slate
Sealing your slate is a smart move. By sealing the goods, potential stains are prevented and cleaning is made simpler. Also, there are sealers and enhancers that truly highlight the eye-catching diversity and color found naturally in a product made of natural stone like slate. Consult your neighborhood tile store about the various sealing options, then make your decision. - Allow The Slate To Dry
Prior to using any sealers or enhancers, give the slate at least 24 hours to dry. The most common reason sealers don't work when applied is moisture. - Follow The Manufacturer's Instructions
Observe the manufacturer's guidelines. A paintbrush is used to apply some sealants, whereas rags or sponges are used for others. To give your slate the finish you want, carefully follow the directions.