How To Install Pocket Door In Existing Wall: Installing A Sliding Pocket Door Frame In An Existing Wall


A door that slips into the wall is referred to as a pocket door. A sliding door that moves along the side of the wall is very unlike to this. An interior door is a pocket door. When mounting a pocket door from scratch, it's important to enter the wall at the proper time—ideally, before running any wiring through the door's frames. Order your pocket door kit and correctly install it after your wooden structure is up. The last touches will be drywall, electricity, and any other necessary work. Just one side of the wall needs to be removed; not the entire thing. And always think big. Make the wall opening without hesitation. It will be considerably simpler to install the door frame that way.

Installing A Sliding Pocket Door Frame In An Existing Wall

A pocket door, which slides in and out of the wall at the entryway, can free up important floor space if a swinging door is taking up too much area in the bedroom or living room. A hollow wall at least 36 inches long on one side of the existing door is a fundamental requirement. Installing a pocket door is a weekend project for someone with average home improvement skills, not counting the time needed for drywall repair and painting.

Thing's Needed

  • Pocket Door Kit
  • King Studs And Trimmers
  • Cripple Studs
  • Screwdriver
  • Circular Saw
  • Power Drill
  • Level & Hammer

Step 1: Load-Bearing Walls

  • If the wall is not supporting any loads, it is safe to change the construction in order to install a pocket door. A structural engineer should be consulted if the wall is load-bearing. If you don't choose wood that is the right size, you risk having sags in an upstairs floor or worse because a pocket door needs a header that is twice as long as one for a typical swinging door. A wall's weight must be calculated using an engineer's knowledge of loads and stresses.

Step 2: Pocket Door Kits

  • The frame, which comprises the jamb for the door opening and the pocket, which is concealed inside the wall, and the door itself are all included in kits for pocket doors. The split stud that the door slides through to open and close is a crucial component of the frame assembly. Typically, kits come with all the necessary hardware. This contains the latch mechanism, the track that fastens to the header, the door hangers that fasten to the top of the door, brackets that hold the split stud to the wall plates, and the door hangers that fasten to the top of the door.

Step 3: Installing The Frame

  • When removing drywall to install a pocket door in an existing wall, it is simpler to expose the entire wall rather than attempting to work inside a small space. By doing so, you can reroute cables as necessary and remove entire studs rather than just cutting them. You must put cripple studs between the header and the top plate of the wall, set new king studs and trimmers, and place the header. The split stud is fastened to the floor and the header with the help of the provided brackets after the frame is attached to the new trimmers and the header.

Step 4: Level The King Studs And Trimmer

  • As with building any doorway, you must level the king studs and trimmer before installing them, and you require shims between the outside jamb and the trimmer when installing the pocket door frame. Install the track, hang the door, and test it before nailing that side of the frame.
  • You will almost certainly discover a gap between the top or bottom of the door and the jamb, regardless of how thoroughly you plumbed the trimmer. This can be fixed by adjusting the hangers, the shims, or both. You are prepared to hang drywall, trim the door opening, and install the pocket door lock after the door butts cleanly against the jamb.
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