Step By Step Process Of Installing An Attic Access Door
The attic access door is usually used to represent push-up-type access panels, knee-wall doors, or any kind of entry point into the attic space. The best & well-known of these is the push-up-type panel that is merely drywall or plywood held in place by simple wood trims. These panels are more often than not found in hallways, closets, garage spaces, or those sections of the home where the panel will not be highly noticeable, still provide easy access for storage or maintenance. The push-up panels consist of a square or rectangular piece of ceiling drywall stuck to a piece of plywood that rests on trim nailed on every side of the opening. A "dam" created from plywood panels on every side of the opening prevents the attic insulation from cascading down the opening. A ladder is used when it comes to reaching the opening.
Thing's You Will Need
- Studfinder & Tape Measure
- Drywall Saw & Circular Saw
- 3-inch Nails & Joist Hangers
- 1 1/2 Inch 10d Joist Hanger Nails
- 2-Inch By 4-Inch Or 2-Inch By 6-Inch Lumber Boards
- 1/4-Inch Plywood & Glue
- 1 1/2 Inch Screws & Rigid Insulation Foam
Step 1: Locate The Joists & Cut The Drywall
First of all, mark the locations of two adjoining ceiling joists, with the help of a studfinder in order to locate the inside edges. Mark the top as well as the bottom end of the access hole, spaced at least 3 feet apart. Cut out the ceiling drywall with the help of a drywall saw in order to create your drywall attic access panel. Pop the rectangular piece out and put it down to one side for use later.
Step 2: Take Your Measurements
Calculate or compute the width of a ceiling joist, generally betwixt 6 inches to 10 inches wide. Compute the distance betwixt the two adjacent joists, generally 16 inches or 24 inches. Trim two lengths of lumber "blocking" exactly the same width as the ceiling joist and long enough in order to span the space betwixt the two joists. Secure joist hangers, using nails, on the ceiling joists on either side at the top as well as the bottom ends of the opening in the ceiling on the inside edges of the ceiling joists. Fit the lengths of blocking in the joist hangers before nailing them to the side joists in order to create a rectangular opening.
Step 3: Cut Four Lumber Boards
Trim two 3-foot lengths of 2-by 4-inch or 2-by 6-inch lumber boards and two more lengths of exactly the same lumber boards the width of the blocking. Secure the boards to the inside of the rectangular opening, placing or arranging the lower edges with the lower edges of the ceiling joists as well as blocking in order to create a "lip" around the opening.
Step 4: Cut A Piece Of Plywood
Trim a piece of 1/4-inch plywood, but make sure to cut to the same dimensions as the rectangular piece of drywall that you cut from the ceiling. Secure or affix the plywood to the back of the drywall piece. Trim two rectangular pieces of rigid insulation foam and secure or affix them one over the other to the top of the plywood. Place, fit, or push this access panel into the hole in the ceiling and keep it on the lip of the frame around the opening with the drywall side showing.
Step 5: Nail The Plywood
Trim 2 12-inch wide and 3-feet long pieces of 1/4-inch plywood and 2 more pieces of 12-inch plywood the same length as the width betwixt the joists. Secure or affix the pieces to the outside of the joists and the blocking in order to create a "dam" that will prevent the attic insulation from falling through the opening when the panel is pushed open.
Step 6: Make A Frame & Add Weatherstripping To Prevent Heat Loss
Use window casing trim in order to make a frame on every side of the access hole for a neater appearance. Weatherstrip the push-up panel in order to prevent loss of heat, with the help of a self-stick foam tape or weatherstripping tape around the lip of the access panel.