How To Install A Security Screen Door On Stucco: Proper Procedure & Items Needed


Proper Procedure & Items Needed For Installing A Security Screen Door On Stucco

Pre-hung security screen door installation is not a difficult operation to complete. Prehung doors don't need to be planed or brought together because the manufacturer attaches and arranges them in a frame. Sets for stucco walls also include a stucco threshold and ground as part of the prehung unit. Purchase a set of double prehung doors based on the width and height of the rough opening after removing the previous doors, frames, threshold, and ground. Take assistance with installation because pre-hung double doors are heavier than single doors and require assistance.

Items Needed

  • Wood Chisel, Hammer & Wire Cutters
  • Exterior Caulking, Caulking Gun & Utility Knife
  • Wood Block, 4-Foot Level & Wood Shims
  • Power Or Cordless Drill & 3/8-Inch Countersink Bit
  • Screw-Tip Attachment & 4-Inch Deck Screws
  • 3 1/6-Inch Carbide Drill Bit & 3-Inch Concrete Screws
  • 5-Penny Galvanized Finish Nails & Nail Set

Proper Procedure

  1. With a wood chisel and hammer, first remove the stucco ground from the frame's sides and top. To create a gap all around, place the chisel's tip between the ground and the frame and use a hammer to open up the blade's end. Use the chisel or hammer's claws to carefully inspect the sides and top sections of ground that are separate from the frame.
  2. With the use of wire cutters, trim the exposed portions of the staple bolts at the back of the stucco ground. Keep in mind to protect the stucco surface. Trim any exposed staples that were left at the frame's top and edges.
  3. A caulking gun should be filled with an outside caulking tube. With the aid of a utility knife, trim the tube's tip if necessary to create a 1/4-inch hole at the end. Apply a generous bead of caulking from end to end across the base of the door opening.
  4. With the ends of the joints towards the house, position the prehung unit vertically at the outside of the opening. Bend the unit's top away from the house and outward. Place the unit such that each side of the opening's lower edge lines up with the outer margins of the wood surrounding it. In the opening, pivot the entrance. Set up the unit's top in the opening by raising it.
  5. Align the frame's exterior borders with the wood's outer margins at the top, bottom, and sides of the opening. If necessary, use a wood block to pry out the frame's edges and a hammer to align them. Using a 4-foot level, check each edge of the frame, and make any necessary adjustments to ensure that both sides are straight or precisely vertical.
  6. Before setting up a 4-foot level overhead the entry, open the doors. The level's ends should be facing the matching sides of the frame. To ensure that the bubble on the level is positioned between the bubble lines, adjust the wood shims at the bottom of the entrance as necessary.
  7. Install a 3/16-inch countersink bit in a power or cordless drill. At 16-inch intervals, drill countersinks in the frame's faces. Add extra countersinks to each side, 4 inches from the base and top. Drive 4-inch jolt deck screws through the frame and into the surrounding material at each countersink by setting up a screw-tip attachment in the drill.
  8. Install a carbide drill bit with a 3/16-inch diameter in the drill. Drill 2-inch extensive holes in the concrete slab at each of the apertures in the aluminum threshold, using the manufacturer's openings as guides. Drill the openings 4 inches apart along the whole midline of a hardwood threshold if it has one. At each opening, install 3-inch concrete screws to secure the threshold. Use the utility knife to cut across the face of any exposed wood shims, then break them off with your hands or a hammer.
  9. Install the spared stucco ground at the top and bottom of the frame with five-penny jolted finish nails spaced every 12 inches. Using a nail set and hammer, place each nail 1/16 of an inch apart.
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