Step By Step Process To Fix Wood Tabletop Damaged By Water
If the surface of your table is peeling, then it is highly possible that the table is a veneer, due to the fact that the solid wood won't peel, instead, it simply cracks or gets split. The main cause for the Veneer table to peel or deform include direct water exposure or condensed moisture if in case the surface layer simply loses effectiveness or intensity. As soon as a table gets peeling on its surface you can restore it back to an appropriate condition with the help of resin glue. The best thing about resin glue is that it dries hard and is colored to appear exactly like wood. If in case you want to give your table a natural look, you can use maple-colored glue or walnut glue for staining the table.
- Sanding: First of all, start sanding the table surface by hand using a hand block with the help of 100-grit sandpaper. Make sure to sand parallel to the grain. All the loose fibers need to be sanded that are bundled up or isolated from the surface of the table.
- Remove Chips, Debris, Or Loose Fibers: Sprinkle Air over the table with the help of an air compressor equipped with an air nozzle in order to get rid of any chips, debris, or loose fibers that may be hiding underneath the veneer. If in case some of the debris or loose fibers are difficult to remove and won't come out, you can use the head of a putty knife in order to smoothly scrape them out.
- Mix Powdered Resin Glue With Water: Now, make a mixture of the powdered resin glue and water according to the manufacturer's instructions. Soak the head of a putty knife into the glue. Place, fit, or push the wet putty knife underneath any loose pieces of the veneer and let the glue scrape off under it. Extend or spread a piece of masking tape tight over the loose area and then press down hard in order to secure the loose piece. It is fine if in case the glue seeps out.
- Dry The Glue: Soak the knife into the glue and use it as a small trowel in order to run through larger areas where splinters are absent or there are cracks or splits. When you have run through and taped down all the loose spots, let the glue dry for nearly 24 hours.
- Remove The Tape: Next, take off all the tape from the table before again sanding the table surface by hand with the help of a hand block and 100-grit sandpaper as long as it is smooth, sanding parallel to the grain. Expose air over the table with the help of an air nozzle in order to get rid of any chips or debris.
- Again Sand: Soak the putty knife into an open can of wood dough. Seal all the fine cracks, small holes, or any other small pits or defects that were not able to do using the resin glue. Sand the table again gently with the help of a hand block and 100-grit sandpaper. Sand it again parallel with the grain, this time with the help of 180-grit sandpaper on the hand block.
- Spray Lacquer: Sprinkle air over the table with the help of an air nozzle as long as it is clean and free of any dust. Run through a one-quart pressurized spray gun with lacquer. Grasp, carry, or support the gun 8 inches from the table surface at a 30-degree angle. Sprinkle overlapping bands of lacquer as long as the table is uniformly wet. Give the lacquer at least 30 minutes to dry.
- Sanding: Again, sand the table smoothly, parallel to the grain, by hand with the help of a hand block using 180-grit sandpaper. The sanding will help to bring out a fine, white powder. Do not cleanse the powder off. This is lacquer dust that will assist in preserving the next coat. Spray the table exactly the same way as you did before as long as it's completely wet with lacquer. Wait at least 48 hours before again using the table.