Building Shaker Style Cabinet Doors Using A Router
A router table is used to make the majority of shaker-style cabinet doors that are sold commercially. You may produce the parts for a full kitchen in a couple of hours by using rail and stile router bits, which make the tongues or grooves in a single pass. Even more decorative features, including bevels, can be added to the inside edge for a unique appearance. Shaker cabinets may be made at home using the same technique! All you'll need is a tiny bench top model or a DIY router table similar to this one.
Step 1: Measure For Cabinet Doors
The measures are the most crucial aspect of making any cabinet door. While you could always cut down a door that is too huge, if it ends up being too little there is nothing you can do! However, you may be sure that your cabinet doors will fit exactly if you perform a few simple calculations. Two top and bottom rails, two side stiles, and a center panel make up the traditional cabinet door's five components. To ensure that your door is square on the opening and has a consistent reveal all the way around the outside, it is essential to have all of these dimensions absolutely right.
Step 2: Use Rail And Stile Router Bits
Sets of rail and stile router bits are available. The tongue on the ends of the rail pieces is chopped by the rail bits. For the center panel and the tenons, the stile bit creates a groove on the inside edge of the rails and stiles. The tongue on both ends of the rail components should first be cut. To maintain the board flat and straight as it passes the blade, use a coping sled. After that, use the stile bit to cut the groove and ornamental profile on all the parts. Verify the tenon's fit in the groove to make sure the tops are flush and there are no gaps. Before committing to the final configuration, I test it on a scrap piece. I then save the test pieces to make future setup easier.
Step 3: Cut The Center Panel And Test Fit
- The slot carved into the sides of the rails and stiles accommodates the center panel. To allow space for the wood glue, it should be just a little bit smaller than the opening's full length, width, and depth. To give myself a little wiggle space, I typically deduct one millimeter (1/16") from my computed dimensions.
- I advise using MDF for the middle panel of your cabinet doors if you intend to paint them. It paints very beautifully and is incredibly smooth with no grain. Additionally, it is dimensionally stable, so it won't change size with the changing of the seasons.
- If, however, you are bent on a natural wood appearance, you ought to use plywood made of the same kind of wood as the frame for the center panel. It is a stable material, similar to MDF, that won't expand in high humidity like solid wood. However, bear in mind that plywood is frequently undersized, so it can be a little loose in the groove.
- Perform a test fit with all the parts before you begin constructing your Shaker cabinet doors. To ensure that the calculated and real measurements agree, compare them. Making corrections now is simpler than waiting until everything is put together!
Step 4: Apply Wood Glue
- Shaker cabinet doors don't have any screws or nails holding them together. The only material required for assembly is wood glue.
- Apply a bead of glue to the interior of the groove on one of the longer stile pieces if the center panel is made of plywood or MDF. To enable the wood to float in the groove and expand and contract with the seasons if you're using a solid wood panel, omit the glue.
- Then, coat one of the rail pieces' end and groove with wood glue. To uniformly apply silicone glue to the entire surface without getting my fingers sticky, I like to use a silicone glue brush. You won't get excellent adhesion if you keep it like way!
Step 5: Assemble The Cabinet Door
- First, insert the middle panel into the glued-up stile's groove. The rail's bonded end should then be inserted into the groove. As you put the pieces together, be sure that all of the decorative profiles are facing in the same direction!
- Repeat the technique for the opposite rail and stile after adjusting the fit until the edges are flush. Since the wood glue hardens quickly, you must move quickly! When the glue squeezes out in a thin line like this, you've used enough.
- To remove the wood glue before it dries, use a moist cloth. You'll end up sanding for a lot longer if you don't!
Step 6: Clamp The Cabinet Door Together
- Using clamps can help you maintain uniform pressure as the glue cures after all the parts have been assembled. Instead of being placed at the top and bottom of the stiles, the clamps should span the rail and two stiles.
- `Measure across the diagonal in both directions after everything has been clamped to make sure it is square. It is square if the dimensions are the same. If they don't line up, take the door out of the clamps and press down on the longer diagonal to force the situation into square.
- The majority of wood glue will dry in a few hours, but I typically leave the doors in clamps overnight. I like to put together a lot of doors at once, so the workshop is eventually completely covered in doors!
Step 7: Sand The Cabinet Doors
- You can take the clamps off after the glue dries. Sanding is the next unpleasant step. Start by quickly cleaning up any glue squeeze out at the joints with 80 grit sandpaper.
- Examine each joint and the wood of the frame carefully after the initial round of sanding. Even when painted over, minute gaps or knots will be visible in the completed door. To cover up those flaws, you may use wood putty or filler, but it's messy and may take some time to dry.
- Instead, I favor immediately filling those gaps with CA glue and activator spray. Simply run a bead along each joint, followed by a spray of activator, to instantly cure it.
- Continue using sandpaper with grits up to 220 once all defects have been filled. Additionally, use a hand sanding block a few times to round off any rough edges. This will avoid dents and make it more agreeable to the touch.
Step 8: Apply Paint Or Stain
- There must be a lot of dust adhered to the cabinet doors' surface after all that sanding. Use a tack cloth or microfiber cloth to thoroughly wipe away any dust before painting or staining. Consider using primer first when painting. As a result, you won't need as many coats of paint to get even coverage. Your choice of primer will depend on the type of paint you intend to use.
- Consider using a wood conditioner first if you plan to stain your cabinet doors. You'll avoid blotchiness and have a more uniform hue as a result. Use 220 or 320 grit sandpaper to softly sand the surface after the primer has dry. This will take away the rough texture the primer left behind and erase any brushstrokes or dust specks that could have accumulated on the surface. Do not forget to use a tack cloth to wipe away the dust!
- Finally, you can start painting! For my kitchen cabinets, I'm choosing Decorator's White Cabinet Coat from Benjamin Moore. It instantly levels out to eliminate brush and roller strokes, and it dries extremely hard and durably.
- The recoat and cure times are stated on the paint can label; pay attention to them. After the paint has dried, you can handle your cabinet doors, but I like to wait until they are fully cured before I install them. You can easily scratch or dent something if the paint is still soft.