Step By Step Instructions Of Building A Floating Deck
Wood decks, also known as floating decks, are those that are freestanding and not fixed to any building, even your home. They are more simpler to construct than traditional linked decks and often do not need a construction permit. They are also known as freestanding decks. However, many jurisdictions set height restrictions for people who do not need a permission. Floating decks can be placed on the ground or, more ideally, a gravel bed. The deck should be supported on concrete blocks, though. As a result, the wood is kept off the ground and away from moisture, staying dry and lasting longer. You can purchase specific deck support blocks or use regular solid concrete blocks (the type without holes), which are less expensive and lower profile for the deck.
Equipment / Tools Needed
- Shovel And Rake
- Tape Measure
- Carpenter's Level
- Circular Saw
- Drill And Drill Bits
Materials Needed
- Landscape Fabric And Gravel (Optional)
- 9 4 x 8 x 16-Inch Concrete Blocks
- 3 1/2-Inch And 2-Inch Or 2 1/2-Inch Deck Screws
- 10 Pressure-Treated 2x8s (10 Feet Long)
- 2 Pressure-Treated 2x8s (12 Feet Long)
- 22 Pressure-Treated 5/4x6 Or 2x6 Decking Boards (12 Feet Long)
Step 1: Prepare The Deck Area
Remove grass and any other organic matter from the area where the deck will be placed. Then, level and tamp the dirt with a rake, your feet, or a hand tamping tool. To stop weed growth under the deck, you can cover the soil with garden fabric and add a layer of gravel.
Step 2: Set The Concrete Blocks
- Place four concrete blocks in a rectangle so that, measured from the centers of the blocks, they are 12 feet apart along the long sides and 10 feet apart along the short sides.
- To ensure that the corner blocks are evenly spaced apart, place a block in between each pair. If desired, place a block or more in the rectangle's middle. This is not required to support the inside joists, but it can give the deck a little more substantial feel.
- To ensure that all of the blocks are level with one another, use a straight 12-foot-long board and a 6-foot level, a regular (4-foot or 2-foot) level, or both. To level the blocks, add or remove gravel as necessary.
Step 3: Build The Outer Frame
- To build the deck frame, level off a section of lawn (or use a garage floor or driveway). The deck can also be constructed on top of the concrete blocks, if necessary. Using a circular saw or power miter saw, cut 10 pressure-treated 2x8 boards to length at 117 inches; these will serve as the standard joists.
- The two 12-foot 2x8s should be measured; if they are longer than 12 feet, they should be cut to exactly 144 inches (lumber often runs a fraction of an inch longer than the nominal dimension; in this case, 12 feet). The end joists are those long ones you see. To make a rectangle measuring 120 inches by 144 inches, place the two end joists over the ends of two of the standard joists.
- Drill pilot holes, and then use three 3 1/2-inch deck screws to join the pieces at each corner. Make two marks every 16 inches along one of the 12-foot end joists starting from the inside of one of the frame's corners. Mark the other end joist in the same way.
- Make sure you insert two more standard joists inside the frame so that each end is positioned between two layout lines. Also, make sure the joists' tops are flush. Drill pilot holes, and then fasten three 3 1/2-inch screws at each end through the end joist and into the standard joist.
Step 4: Position And Square The Deck Frame
Placing the deck frame on top of the concrete blocks will allow the frame's components to rest over the block centers. Diagonally between the opposite corners, measure. When necessary, press diagonally from opposite corners to square up the frame (this takes two people). The frame is square when the diagonal distances are equal.
Step 5: Check The Blocks And Install The Remaining Joists
- Verify that the deck structure is level and that it touches each concrete block firmly. Blocks can be raised or lowered by adding or removing gravel or soil beneath them as appropriate.
- The final six standard joists should be installed in accordance with the arrangement lines. Always maintain the standard joists flush with the end joists' tops. The deck boards will lie flat as a result of this.
Step 6: Install The Deck Boards
- To make the 12-foot-long deck boards 144 inches long, measure them all and trim any that are too long. Place one deck board along the deck frame's long side so that it is flush with the end joist's outside face. For a finished appearance, you can also position the starting and last boards so that they have an approximate 1-inch overhang from the end joists. However, you won't have the same overhang at the frame's sides.
- Drill two pilot holes, one into the end joist and one into the standard joist, one into each pair of pilot holes that are aligned with the standard joists. To avoid obstructing the frame screws, slightly off-center the holes. With 2-inch deck screws (for timber that is 1-inch thick) or 2 1/2-inch screws (for lumber that is 1 1/2 inches thick), secure the deck board to the joists.
- The following deck board should be attached with two screws in each common joist, with the two boards being spaced about 1/8 inch apart. Using the same methods, install the remaining deck boards, equally spacing them.