How To Build A Built In Wardrobe With Sliding Doors: Building A Fitted Or Built-In Wardrobe With Sliding Doors

Building A Fitted Or Built-in Wardrobe With Sliding Doors

Installing built-in closets can offer a tonne of storage space to your home for a reasonable price. They are really easy to construct and a nice project for someone looking to advance their DIY abilities. You'll gain practical knowledge of how to frame a wall, install plasterboard, plaster and install a set of sliding doors. In order to build a fitted or built-in wardrobe with sliding doors, go through the below-mentioned steps carefully:

Step 1: Measure And Mark The Position Of The Wardrobe

The top rail must first be fixed in place after being measured, marked, and fixed in place. Make a mark at the distance from the wall to the depth of the wardrobe of your choice—in this case, 610mm. Repeat this throughout the area of your proposed installation several times, and when you've made your markings, use a straight edge, like a spirit level, to draw a line through them.
Make several marks and then unite them with a straight edge on the floor away from the wall, keeping in mind the depth of the skirting, if there is any.
Considering the space is around 4 m2 in size, make your wardrobe 1803 mm wide (internal). To do this, measure and mark the floor and ceiling at various locations at 1803 mm from the side wall, again taking into consideration the skirting on the floor. Finally, it is time to link the lines.
The line that would run from the front top right corner to the front bottom right corner was then linked after being measured and marked 610mm out from the wardrobe back wall on the side wall. The top and bottom rails were then going to be immediately above one another, so use a spirit level to make sure this vertical line was perfectly plumb.
The line should be vertically square if the house is relatively new and all of the walls are quite square (or as square as they could be). This won't always be the case, particularly with older homes, so if your queue isn't working, you'll need to enter or exit the room while leaving your markings on the ceiling to make sure the rails are exactly positioned over one another. Now, you have two cube shapes, precisely indicating the size and shape of the closet, after connecting all the lines.

Step 2: Fix Top Rails And Bracing In Place

Fixing the top rails in place is the next task. Mark through all of the fixing holes after setting up the first rail so that it butts up to the line you drew on the ceiling to indicate the breadth of the wardrobe (you might need a second pair of hands for this).
Next, enter the loft area and look for pipes and wires above where your wardrobe is installed. If somebody is there, take a measurement of their location so you may return to your work area knowing where they are.
Utilising a ladder, push a few screws through each of the rail fixing positions with a drill/driver.
Return to the loft, locate all of your screws, measure the spaces between each pair of joists where any screws are sticking out, and cut any necessary 3 1/2- or 4-inch timbers to length.
After having them cut to length, climb back up into the loft and screw them flat to the ceiling over the top of the series of screws. In order to have enough at the front to also screw up the front sliding door rail, make sure the rear third of the timber is over the screws.
After that, cut and fasten a suitable timber so that its rear face is level with the brace timber placed between the joists over the top of the joists. Finally, cut and fasten short timbers to serve as extra bracing to aid further support the bracing. The weight of the doors hanging from the top ceiling rail will be supported in part by this framework. The top rail needs to be firmly screwed and supported over its whole length because, as was already said, the doors can be quite heavy.
Take your sliding door rail and put it so the back edge is butted to the line on the ceiling. Then, once the bracing is completely attached, screw it securely in place using 8x40mm timber screws or another suitable screw. Place the second rail next to the first one, making sure they are completely butted together, and screw this one in as well.

Step 3: Fix Bottom Rails In Place

The bottom rails needed to be fastened in place once the top rails were fixed. The first rail should be positioned so that its back edge is flat with the floor's line, and all available fixing holes should be used to firmly secure it.
Use a stud, pipe, and cable detector to scan the installation area just before fixing to ensure sure there are no cables or pipes buried beneath the surface. Again, use 8x40mm timber screws if you are mounting to a timber floor.
The second rail should be butted up and set in place once the first rail has been secured.

Step 4: Fix Door Stop In Place

The next step is to mount a door stop vertically to the side wall once the sliding door rails have been installed on top and bottom and are ready for the doors.
Cut an appropriate piece of wood to size after measuring the distance vertically between the top and bottom rails on the wall. In this instance, we made use of a piece of 4 by 1 inch planed wood. If you don't have a router, a piece of 120 grit sandpaper will work just as well to get the same result. We then ran a router and rounded off a bit down the outer edge to remove any sharp angles.
Fix the door stop in position so that the very front of the rounded edge protrudes just over the front sliding door rail by drilling 4-5 fixing pilot holes in the middle of the timber, evenly spaced apart, and counter sinking them.

Step 5: Measure And Cut Sliding Doors

The sliding doors must then be cut so they may be fitted after the rails have been completely put in place. Given that we are employing three doors and that our wardrobe is 1803mm wide, we will reduce the width of each door to 610mm. As a result, the center door and end panel will have a 15mm overhang on each side door, allowing the two side doors to butt up against the side wall.
The distance between the top of the base rail and the bottom edge of the top rail was then measured, and it was 2250mm. In order to have 10mm of wiggle room at the top and bottom, we subtracted 15mm from this measurement, giving us a total height of 2230mm.
Using the aforementioned specifications as a guide, we cut two 18mm 1.2 x 2.4 m MDF sheets in half to create two 610mm wide sheets before doing the same with the second sheet. The three parts were then cut to a height of 1230mm, and any sharp angles were removed by running a router along the edges.
Additionally, we cut an 8mm deep circular depression with a router and a 6mm cutting bit in the middle of each door, which we then secured with a circular brass door pull ring.

Step 6: Fix Sliding Rollers/Wheels To Sliding Doors

The following task is to screw the top and bottom of the sliding door roller hangers into position. The sort of kit you have depends determine how your door rollers/hangers are fixed, so check your manufacturer's instructions for precise instructions. In our instance, the rollers are screwed into the top of each door—two at the top and two at the bottom.
Measure the width of the door (in our example, 610mm) and divide it by three to get 203mm. Then, measure and mark the center of the top edge of the door numerous times, drawing a line between them. Along the top edge of the door, measure and mark two points at 203 and 406 millimeters, and then drill a tiny pilot hole with a 2mm drill bit.
Two sliding door roller hangers should be screwed into each point such that there is approximately 11mm between the top of the door and the base of the wheel. Make sure the wheels are both pointed away from the door's rounded edge. For the base and the remaining two doors, repeat this procedure.

Step 7: Fit Doors In Place

The doors must then be hung in the hanging rails once the rollers have been firmly attached to them. Setting each to the 11mm distance from the wheel to the top of the door as we have above should be good as long as the floor and ceiling are level. This sort of hanging wheel is screwed in or out to raise and lower each door. But if either isn't level, the door will probably bind, necessitating the adjustment of both the top and bottom sets of wheels.
Start out by testing one door. You are ready to go if this slides smoothly from left to right across the entire width of the hanging rails without binding, but if not, remove it and make necessary adjustments until it fits perfectly. Then, make any necessary adjustments to the other doors before hanging them in place.

Step 8: Measure, Cut, And Fix Side Panel In Place

The side panel needs to be cut and fixed in place as one of the last tasks. To do this, take two 3 x 2-inch timbers and measure, cut, and fasten them between the open ends of the top and bottom rails, between the back border of the back rail, and between the rear wall.
The next step is to measure, cut, and fasten a 3 x 2-inch timber vertically down the back wall between the back borders of the top and bottom timbers that we just set in place. This is done after the side timbers have been fastened.
Next, measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling, which in this case was 2350 mm. Next, measure the distance from the back wall to the front edge of the front rail and add 10 mm to allow for router rounding of the edge.
Using these dimensions, we used the router to round off the outside corners of a piece of 18mm MDF that was cut to 2350mm in height and 720mm in width.
Use 8x32mm wood screws to secure the side panel in place by drilling and countersinking 4 fixing holes across the top and bottom of the MDF side panel and then 8 along the back edge.